Written over several days between 4th- 8th August 2012
Leaving
Gaza part 1.
My time in Gaza is up, for now at least.
It was with a heavy heart that I left, not
least because I have a sense of unfinished business. I felt passionate about
Palestine before I ever went, and getting acquainted with Gaza and its people has
only deepened the passion and commitment. I have faces and names to put to what
was once, for me, a nameless, faceless population.
The last week in Gaza was spent wrapping up
the work I had been doing, getting sign-off on my report, agreeing what comes
next, when and how; business.
And of course the last week meant spending as
much time as possible with dear, sweet friends. Iftar loomed large on the social
agenda with invitations too numerous to accept given the short amount of time
left to me - it seemed everyone in Gaza wanted to feed me. I had started the
Ramadan fast with my “Gazan family”, and so it was fitting that I should end my
fast (somewhat prematurely) with them, in preparation for my travels home. Another
magical night was had, which is now firmly rooted in my memory.
Leaving is always hard. As someone who has
left many places and people, it doesn’t get any easier. Thinking of my relationship with Gaza, I am reminded of the academic and writer Norman Finkelstein. When asked if he ever got tired of working and campaigning on behalf of Palestine, he responded
with utter indignation- you don’t give up on your (Palestinian) friends- they
have no choice about their circumstances, this is their life and we who know
the reality of the injustices they suffer have a duty to stand with them,
never giving up.
I will not give up on my friends, on rights
for the Palestinian people, or on justice. And of course, I’ll be back.
Leaving
Gaza part 2
If you want the tiniest insight into what
life is like for a Palestinian, try crossing into or out of Gaza at Rafah.
I arrived on the Gaza side of the Rafah
crossing at around 10.30am. Walked passed the security checkpoint manned by
Hamas guards, and climbed into a big yellow taxi, a la Joni Mitchell. The taxi
had an industrial strength roof rack, and capacity inside for 7 people and the
driver- even more with a squash. The driver was waiting for it to fill up with
passengers he would then take to the Gazan terminal- the first stage of the
labyrinthine crossing into Egypt. In the
taxi I was greeted by two women in niqab who each shook my hand and introduced
themselves. A few minutes after settling
into the sweltering cab’s blue leather upholstery, I was asked to get out again
by a young Hamas guard who wanted to see my passport and to check my
coordination.
The poor taxi driver had to take my
enormous bag back down from the roof where he had stowed it. All that effort for nothing- he was going to
miss out on my fare today.
I trundled off behind the guard, back to
the checkpoint, that, as it transpired, I had blithely ignored- I was meant to
stop and hand in my papers. For my sins I was made to sit like a naughty
schoolgirl outside the office while they checked and rechecked my passport and
coordination- the Hamas approval to say I could leave. The guard who had
summonsed me from the taxi was slightly apologetic and every 10 minutes would smile
sheepishly and say to me- “just 5 minutes”. This went on for over half an hour.
There was nothing to do, as I sat in the
shade, but be Zen about it- stay in the moment, enjoy watching the scenes
unfold around me- the hustle and bustle of people arriving to make the
transition to Egypt.
A while later, having been handed back my
papers I made it into a taxi, my good humour intact, and across then to the
Palestinian terminal- modern and efficient. I met a friend who had been
interning with another Human Rights centre- it’s what she does in her summer
holidays from university in Texas. A Palestinian, she is heading back to the US
for the start her semester next week. I am in awe at her commitment and
diligence.
Eventually, after our papers are processed,
we are all put onto coaches along with our luggage. The coach will take us the
300 meters or so, to the Egyptian terminal.
For no apparent reason the coaches were
stopped along the route- three of them together. We sat for more than an hour: fretting
babies and squabbling children, exhausted parents and their own elderly parents,
in 38 degrees of scorching noonday heat, on a bus whose air conditioning had
broken. It was like sitting in a tin can that was slowly being heated to
boiling point. We were cooking. Of
course all the adults around me were fasting- no food, no water since 4 in the
morning. I had water with me but it would have been wrong to drink in front of
all these tired and thirsty people. I was parched.
When we eventually made it to the bedlam
that is the Egyptian terminal, I realised that no one who had arrived from the
Palestinian side that day had yet been processed. Apparently 10 coach loads of
people were there- we were the last, herded into a hangar-like room with too
few chairs and no proper air conditioning.
The process for giving travellers access
into Egypt is obscure to say the least. After 3 hours of anxiously waiting for
my name to be called, having handed in my papers, I got talking to a young man
whose handsome face and beautiful eyes were marred by weariness that left him
gaunt. Thin and stooped he told me he thought he was going to faint. It
transpired he had been here earlier in the week- arriving at 7am only to be
denied access at 5pm- with no reason for the refusal given. He was back and
trying again- travelling with a friend for an operation in Egypt. There was no
guarantee they would be successful this time either, but they had to try. A
tannoy system called out the names of people who had to go to a counter for
deportation back to Gaza. It was like a scene from Orwell’s 1984.
Every now and then an official would come
out with a handful of passports and papers- there would be a surge forward to
see if ours was amongst them. Names would be called out, and people would
battle to the front of the throng to get their passport if they had been
successful. However, the officials don’t process families’ papers together, that
would be too sensible, so the owner of the passport would have to go and sit
back down to wait until all of his/her party was in receipt of their documents.
Hours and hours.
The young man I was talking to commented
that I had been there a long time, and expressed surprise as he thought that
foreigners got preferential treatment. I told him that I was happy that was not
the case, and I meant it. I would be deeply, deeply ashamed to be ushered in
ahead of all these tired, thirsty people, nursing small babies, trying to keep
toddlers under control while watching their luggage and listening for their
names in this hell masquerading as a system. This is the only viable route for
Gazans to visit family in far-flung places, to travel for education or for
work, to have a holiday in Malaysia or Sharm el Sheik, or to get essential
hospital treatment in Egypt. They have all done this before and they will do it
again. They are Palestinians, they are patient and they know not to expect any
better treatment.
I was close to tears of rage when a man was
made bring each of his five little children up to the counter, through the
heaving crowd, so that the official could see them and give them their papers. Sleepy,
bewildered little ones and a panicky dad shepherding his children. The crowd
opened in front of them and people helped as best they could to jostle them forward. The
system, if you can call it that is chaotic, inefficient and inhumane.
5 hours after I arrived, my name was
called. I needed the loo 2 hours previously but was afraid to go in case I
missed my call. Passport in hand I left my luggage in the main hall and
galloped down to what passes for a toilet- dirty, no loo roll and a lady who
wants you to give her money to use the facility. In fact it seems that everyone
working in the Egyptian terminal wants you to give them money- no inefficiency
there.
I grabbed my luggage, had to pay again for
the privilege of exiting (I had payed hours previously for an entry visa), out
the door, across a tarmacked area and through one final gate. Each step, harassed
and jostled by the hustlers who wanted to take my bag for me- la’a sukran, la’a
sukran, maa biddis – no thank you, no thank you, I don’t want. I learned the hard,
expensive way the last time I crossed.
I passed the border guards, keepers of the
gate and was met by my taxi driver who was going to take me the 5-hour journey
to Cairo. Il hamdullillah.
Leaving
Gaza part 3.
It was Iftar- the sun had set, people were
stopping on the side of the dusty 4 lane motorway to sit beside their cars and
break their fast. I shared some dates with the driver- we stopped at a service
station and he bought us each fruit juice and water. The border was 4 hours
behind us and Cairo an hour ahead.
His phone started to ring, and ring and
ring. Call after call. It was only when I got to my hotel later that I
understood the significance of this. At the time we broke our fast, at the
border I had crossed only 4 hours previously, 16 Egyptian border guards had
been slaughtered and many others injured in an attack that came as they sat
down to break their fast after long hot hours without food or drink. It is hard
to explain the significance of this cowardly and sacrilegious act, and hard to
believe that Muslims would be the perpetrators.
After killing the border guards, the
attackers took two personnel carriers and tried to crash over the Israeli
border. One vehicle blew up and the other was bombed by an Israeli F16. Within
hours, militants from Gaza were being blamed, initially by Israel but joined
later by Egypt. Netanyahu was not slow in telling the new Prime Minister of
Egypt, Mursi , that he needed to tighten up security in the Northern Sinai.
Israel had been warning its citizens living in the Sinai days previously to
leave the border area as they had prior knowledge of an imminent attack. Since
the killings, one by one the various factions in Gaza have come out with
condemnation: Hamas, PFLP, Islamic Jihad and most recently the Salafists- all
the usual suspects, the ones everyone likes to blame- so if they are condemning
the killings, who were the perpetrators?
A tragic train of events was set in motion
by the killings: Palestinians were being beaten up on the streets of Rafah and
Al Arish in retribution but the major consequence was that Gaza was placed under
lock down: the border crossing at Rafah closed, the border at Karm Abu Salem
through which the meager allowance of goods is allowed to pass was closed, and
Gaza’s lifeline - the tunnels, were to be shut down, destroyed.
Once again the people of Gaza are being
collectively punished, for the actions of who?
There is talk of the perpetrators being a
mixed bag of Sinawis, renegade Salafists from Gaza and al-Qaeda. The truth is
that no one knows- surprising since Israel not only had prior knowledge of the attack but has the bodies of those attackers they killed. The Muslim Brotherhood in
Egypt are citing black ops and are holding the Mossad responsible. Irrespective of
who the perpetrators are, it is clear that Israel is using the situation to pressurize
Egypt to tighten controls in the Northern Sinai and by default, tighten the closure of Gaza.
Gaza’s fragile relationship with Egypt, a
relationship that was flourishing with Mursi’s election and holding promise of
better times for the people of Gaza, has soured. Mursi is having to appease not
only Israel, but his own people who are up in arms over the incident. Egypt is
now doing Israel’s dirty work.
And the future for Gaza? Immediately, food and fuel shortages, energy
and water crisis, people with life-threatening illnesses unable to travel for
the medical aid they need. Gaza’s siege continues.